Category Archives: Spain

La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” Reserva 2000

($33, Skurnik):  Rioja, Spain’s most well-known wine region, is one the rare places where the producer ages the wine for the consumer and releases it when it is ready to drink.  This decade-old wine is their current release.  From one of the region’s traditional–and best–producers, this aged Rioja delivers a panoply of dried fruit flavors, leafy nuances and hints of leather and other non-fruit flavors. … Read more

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Louro do Bolo” 2008

($19, Eric Solomon Selections):  The grapes–100% Godello–come from younger vines in a separate and distinct part of the vineyard from which Palacios produces his iconic As Sortes. Much more aromatic than his As Sortes (reviewed previously), Louro do Bolo has an engaging floral quality atop a hint of minerality and shows the range of wine made from the Godello grape. … Read more

Pena das Donas, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Almalarga” 2009

($21):  Consumers unfamiliar with the Godello grape are in for a treat.  Naturally high in acidity, its palate cleansing ability makes it an obvious choice for highly flavored dishes.  Pena das Donas’s rendition, from the small, relatively new DO of Ribera Sacra, undergoes lees-aging in tank, which adds complexity while still preserving the inherent fruitiness of the grape. … Read more

La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Les Brugueres” 2009

($30, Eric Solomon Selections): Priorat is known for its great red wines.  But distinctive whites can be made there, just as in other great red wine areas, such as the Côtes de Nuits and Pessac-Léognan.  Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, it leads with a gorgeous floral–almost peachy–nose followed by an engaging earthiness and bracing minerality, all amplified by vibrant acidity. … Read more

Manchuela, or Mushrooms After A Rain

One of the great things about wine is how new areas appear or spring up seemingly overnight–almost like mushrooms after a rain–and wind up producing world class wines.  It happens all over the world.  The Marlborough region in New Zealand was a cow pasture, but now is producing great Sauvignon Blanc and showing strong potential for Pinot Noir as well. … Read more

The Wines of . . . Madrid?

When you think of Madrid, what pops into your mind?  Vino or Prado?  Prado, of course, one of the world’s most magnificent museums.  But Madrid, not the city proper, but the autonomous region of Madrid–the roughly 3,000 square miles around the city–is home to about 50 wineries who produce a wide range of wines from indigenous as well as international grapes. … Read more

Ferrer Bobet, Priorat (Spain) 2005

($45, Vintus): Judging from this wine, the first vintage of a joint venture of two friends — Sergi Ferrer-Salat and Raül Bobet — that they started in 2002, the project will be a success.  As with many of the newer wines from this region, the indigenous varieties, Carignan and Grenache, predominate, with only a little Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend.… Read more

Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006

($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public.  A rather fuller style of Albariño–with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality–it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape. … Read more

Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005

($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region.  Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more

Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002

($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World.  But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance.  … Read more