Category Archives: South Africa

Simonsig Wine Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) “Kaapse Vonkel” Brut Rosé 2015

($25, Quintessential):  Winemakers can have difficulty taming Pinotage, a grape created by a genetic crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, when transforming it into red wine.  Simonsig has done a fabulous job using the grape in this rosé sparkling wine.  A blend Pinot Noir (63%), Pinotage (35%) and Pinot Meunier, this bubbly delivers subtle red fruit notes with exotic accents — which seem attributable to Pinotage’s contributions. Read more

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011

($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare.  It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate.  Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more

Stark-Condé, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

($27):  A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) with a little Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc, it’s riper and more fruit forward than the usually more restrained Cabernet from South Africa.   Hints of non-fruit flavors peek through and add complexity.  Firm tannins and lively acidity help keep it from going over-the-top, but I can’t help wondering if some South African winemakers are catching the international high alcohol and slightly overripe virus.… Read more

Goats do Roam, Western Cape (South Africa) ‘White’ 2008

($10, Vineyard Brands): Although it’s Charles Back’s pun-laden labels that catch your attention, the wine in the bottle is what holds it.  Hints—just hints—of apricot and peach-like flavors buttressed by good acidity makes this southern Rhone lookalike easy to recommend.  Clean and fresh, without a trace of heaviness, it has surprising length, especially at the price.… Read more

Meinert, Devon Valley (Stellenbosch, South Africa) “Synchronicity” 2004

($44, Boutique Wine Collection): Meinert puts Pinotage, the unique South African cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, to good use by adding a small–10%–of it in the this blend of equal parts Cabernet and Merlot.  Pinotage by itself can be off-putting with its aroma that can sometimes smell like adhesive tape, but in this wine it adds a wonderfully exotic spice-like and component that supplements earthy notes and balances the lush fruitiness of the other varietals. … Read more

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005

($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly.  That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more

The Goats do Roam Wine Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz – Pinotage “Goats in Villages” 2006

($14, Vineyard Brands): Charles Back’s whimsical labeling should not hide the fact that he puts serious wine in his bottles.  This blend of roughly three-quarters Shiraz and one-quarter Pinotage, a grape virtually exclusive to South Africa, works very nicely.  Bright spiciness offsets succulent black fruit in his supple wine. … Read more

Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Left Bank” 2007

($15, Vineyard Brands): The name, The Left Bank, presumably alludes to Bordeaux, but the blend there never includes Shiraz, which comprises a third of this wine–the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) and Merlot.  (Chateau Palmer started producing a wine in 2004–called Historical XIX Century–that includes Shiraz in the blend, but can not be labeled Bordeaux, only Vin de Table). … Read more