($24): Badia a Coltibuono provides another compelling argument for the joys Chianti Classico in general. Their luscious and well-priced 2020 delivers an ideal combination of dark cherry-like fruit balanced by savory or herbal nuances, while weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy
I Fabbri, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Terra di Lamole” 2020
($28): The wines from the higher, and therefore cooler, elevations, like Lamole, turned out especially well in 2020, another year with a hot and dry growing season. Lamole’s cooler climate imbued the wines, such as I Fabbri’s, with a firmness and freshness that balances the dark cherry-like nuances. … Read more
Caravaglio, Salina Bianco IGT (Aeolian Islands, Sicily, Italy) “Salina” 2022
($26): Salina is both the name of the wine and the tiny volcanic Aeolian island just north of Sicily in the Mediterranean. Barely 10 square miles in area, it has six inactive volcanos that account for its lava rich soil. Here the Malvasia di Lipari makes a riveting dry wine that electrifies the palate. … Read more
Jermann, Friuli Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022
($25): If Jermann’s captivating Pinot Grigio was your first experience with Pinot Grigio, it would be easy to understand the popularity of the category. Alas, few Pinot Grigio have the character of Jermann’s. Subtly aromatic, Jermann’s refreshing 2022 Pinot Grigio has appeal that belies its lightweight density. … Read more
Capezzana, Toscana Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2019
($60): The Contini Bonacossi family owns Capezzana, Carmignano’s best producer. Ugo Contini Bonacossi, who transformed the property from the typical sharecropping agricultural endeavor of the era, into the current modern wine and olive oil producing estate, adored a particular small Sangiovese vineyard that he thought consistently produced exceptional grapes. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2020
($18): Rùfina, the smallest of the Chianti subzones, is mountainous and wild. The wines, like this one, have an appealing wildness and refinement. Frescobaldi, Rùfina’s largest and most important producer, never falters, which means that this 2020 delivers more than its price suggests. … Read more
Villa Calcinaia, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($21): The ready-to-drink 2020 Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico shows why Chianti Classico is so popular. Lip-smacking acidity acts as the foil for its succulent black cherry-like fruitiness. Subtle spice common to Chianti Classico adds appealing complexity, preventing monotony. Mild tannins lend support without intruding. … Read more
Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso (Sicily, Italy) “‘a Rina” 2020
($34): This looks like a Rosé in the glass, but fortunately it displays enormous character and complexity, so you know it’s not a rosé. Girolamo Russo, one of Etna’s top producers, makes a range of terrific wines from that mountain. This one, ‘a Rina, is a blend, and could be considered his “basic” — though there’s nothing basic about it — wine. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($32, Volio Imports): I reviewed this wine last year and jumped at the chance to revisit it since it is still available at the retail level. Spoiler alert — I like it just as much. As a reminder, the Cecchi family has two distinct estates in Chianti Classico, Villa Cerna and Villa Rosa, both in Castellina in Chianti. … Read more
Villa Rosa, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Ribaldoni” 2018
($33, Volio Imports): The Cecchi family purchased the Villa Rosa estate in 2015 because it was an ideal site for Sangiovese. The focus is to make a Gran Selezione, the category at the tip of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid. I suspect this Chianti Classico comes from grapes that did not make it into the Gran Selezione. … Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Primocolle” 2020
($19, Volio Imports): Villa Cerna is the home, and one of the estates, of the Cecchi family, one of the top producers in Tuscany. Primocolle — literally, first hill — comes from vineyards at lower elevations on the estate. The bright and juicy 2020 Primocolle is a lovely, classically proportioned Chianti Classico filled with good depth and an impeccable combination of fruity and savory notes. … Read more
Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC (Marche, Italy) Verdicchio “Bucci” 2022
($24, Empson USA): The Bucci family, farmers in the region from the 18th century, started bottling their wines only in 1983. They’ve rapidly shown themselves to be of the DOC’s top producers. Reasons why the wines are formidable is the age of the vines — mostly 40 to 50 years — and their parsimonious yields, which run about half of the quantity allowed by DOC regulations. … Read more
Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) La Rivetta 2021
($50): Cartizze is a small (roughly 260-acre) steeply sloped area of vineyards that represent the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid. And Sandi’s from their La Rivetta plot within Cartizze fits that perfectly. Oddly, though, Prosecco is nowhere to be found on the label, which is a common practice among Prosecco producers who bottle a Cartizze. … Read more
Tenuta La Massa, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “La Massa” 2020
($27): Giampaolo Motta acquired the 67-acre estate located in the Conca d’Oro in Panzano, the heart of Chianti Classico. Instead of making Chianti Classico, he opted to blend traditional Bordeaux grapes with the native Sangiovese. Some would call his wines Super Tuscan. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Luce” 2019
($121): Tenuta Luce, originally a joint venture between wine icons Robert Mondavi and Vittorio Frescobaldi, is now solely owned by the Frescobaldi family. Located in Montalcino and though it does make a Brunello, Tenuta Luce is distinct from Castelgiocondo, another Frescobaldi estate. … Read more
Tenuta La Massa, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Giorgio Primo” 2019
($111): Giampaolo Motta named this flagship wine after his grandfather and son. With more structure and less flesh that the 2020 La Massa, the stellar 2019 Grigio Primo needs considerably more time in the bottle for its true grandeur to show. … Read more
Tenuta Calimaia, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($20): Frescobaldi, a name synonymous with quality in Tuscany, has established this estate in Montepulciano. It’s really a return to Montepulciano for them since Leonardo Di Niccolò Frescobaldi was the town’s mayor in 1390. The exquisite 2020, their second vintage, is, in a word, gorgeous, melding black fruit that borders on tarriness with minerals. … Read more
San Felice, Toscana (Tuscany, Italy) Pugnitello 2020
($46, Total Beverage Solution): Pugnitello, a grape whose name means “little fist” based on the appearance of the bunches, is a relative newcomer to Italian wine, having been studied and developed by San Felice in the 1980s. So, it is not surprising that their rendition should be outstanding. … Read more
Produttori Vini Manduria, Primitivo di Manduria Riserva DOC (Puglia, Italy) “Elegia” 2019
($22): A massive bottle plus a 15 percent stated-alcohol accurately predicts the style of the wine before you pull the cork. Mild and suave tannins lend needed support to the fruity richness. The level of alcohol and the ripe dark fruit quality explains a hint of sweetness in the finish. … Read more
Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($89, Wilson Daniels): The label says Rosso, but the wine says Brunello. That’s Biondi-Santi for you. Firm, sleek and minerally, this mid-weight Rosso has more elegance and stature than many producers’ bottlings of Brunello. Fine tannins surround tightly coiled power and exquisite austerity. … Read more
Case Alte, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “16 Filari” 2020
($35): Nero d’Avola, a grape indigenous to Sicily, makes a wide wine across a wide gamut of styles. The muscular 16 Filari, from Case Alte, lies towards the massive side of the spectrum — sort of a Nero d’Avola on steroids. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Volte dell’Ornellaia” 2021
($33, Vintus): Sometimes described as the “third” wine of Ornellaia, Le Volte is and it isn’t because it addition to estate wine that did not make it into either Ornellaia or Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia, Le Volte contains grapes that have been purchased from other sources. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2018
($33): Frescobaldi, the iconic Tuscan producer whose homebase is Chianti Rùfina, has recently expanded into Chianti Classico with their Perano estate. Just as they make exceptional wine in Rùfina, they have done the same at Perano. As expected from a Riserva, their 2018 has more weight and depth than their straight Chianti Classico. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) Rialzi 2018
($52): Grapes for a Gran Selezione bottling, which sits above Riserva at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, must come the estate’s own property — no purchased grapes allowed. Perano’s comes from a single vineyard, Rialzi, located at about 500 meters above sea level, which is a real advantage in these days of climate change. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Gazze” 2021
($73, Vintus): Sauvignon Blanc was among the initial plantings at Ornellaia and initially they made a wine exclusively from that variety. Over time, Viognier, Vermentino, and Verdicchio have been added and now the current blend includes those four in proportions that vary from year to year depending on the weather. … Read more
G. B. Burlotto, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa 2020
($30, Vineyard Road, Inc): Freisa, a grape related to Nebbiolo, typically has a significant tannin structure, much like Nebbiolo. Just as there are many examples of Langhe Nebbiolo that are approachable when young, here is a seductive Friesa Langhe DOC that is delightful to drink now. … Read more
Lunae, Liguria di Levante IGT (Italy) Vermentino “Labianca” 2022
($20): There is no better producer of Vermentino than Lunae. And this light — 12.5 percent stated alcohol — and fresh IGT Vermentino, their so-called “entry level” wine, shows Lunae’s talents. A hint of minerals buttressed by saline-acidity gives this bright and zesty wine a bit of depth. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Gris” 2022
($24): Anyone who wants to see the potential of Vermentino just needs to uncork one from Lunae. This one, which translates as Grey Label, is stunning, even though it is not their top-of-line bottling (that would be the Black Label, or Etichetta Nera. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2022
($42): Ok, forty plus bucks for a Vermentino is a big ask. Trust me, this is likely the best Vermentino you will ever taste. This tightly wound wonder (identified as “Etichetta Nera” or Black Label) has great power coupled with extraordinary grace. … Read more
Alessandro di Camporeale, Monreale DOC (Italy) Catarratto Vigna di Mandranova 2020
($19): New discoveries, interesting wines from place you’ve — or at least I’ve — never heard of, is one of the things I love about Italian wines. Here is yet another DOC I am unfamiliar with. You too could be excused if you are unfamiliar with Monreale, a tiny DOC comprising about 70 acres just west of Palermo. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “La Cala” 2022
($15, Taub Family Selections): Sella and Mosca’s lightweight (12.5 percent stated alcohol) and bargain priced Vermentino is a delight to drink with shellfish or most anything from the sea. It also works well by itself, especially during warm weather. Its invigorating saline minerality harmonizes with its floral character. … Read more
Luigi Baudana, Langhe Bianco DOC (Piedmont, Italy) “Dragon” 2021
($23, Vajra, USA): The dragon on the label symbolizes bravery, according to the website, which is appropriate since this beauty is a field-blend. Field blends can be tricky because varieties with different ripening times are planted — and harvested — together. … Read more
Attems, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Sauvignon Blanc “Cicinis” 2020
($34, Vintus): This mid-weight Sauvignon Blanc shows that where the grapes grow, Collio in this instance, matters. The energetic Cicinis subtly combines the characteristic pungency of Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate creaminess. A hint of bitterness in the finish balances appealing floral and peachy elements. … Read more
Tenuta Perano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2021
($33, Frescobaldi): Though I have always been impressed by any of Frescobaldi’s Chianti Rufina — after all they are THE name in that appellation — I remember being disappointed when I tasted their first vintage of Chianti Classico a few years ago. … Read more
Duca di Salaparuta, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Calanica” 2022
($18): It is no surprise that Duca di Salaparuta, one of Sicily’s leading producers, makes a delightful wine from Grillo, one of Sicily’s indigenous white grapes. This crisp and clean light-weight beauty cries for fish or shellfish. A saline-like acidity and hint of bitterness in the finish imparts a surprising length. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Campo alla Sughera” 2019
($89): With an unusual blend of roughly 70 percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, Campo alla Sughera’s Super Tuscan is remarkably well-balanced. The unnecessarily heavy bottle predicts the weight of this 14.5 percent stated alcohol wine. That said, it retains suaveness and poise. … Read more
Tenuta Luce, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Lucente” 2020
($25, Vintus Wines): The stunning 2020 Lucente could be the red wine buy of the summer. This Merlot Sangiovese blend delivers a marvelous combination of black fruit and dark minerals wrapped in a suave, silky texture. Black fruit character is evident, but this is not a fruity wine. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Arnione” 2019
($78): Arnione, a blend of roughly 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, is their Bolgheri flagship. As much as I liked their Adèo, Arnione is just, well, a much better wine. Here, minerals balance the lush black fruit and take center stage. … Read more
Campo alla Sughera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Adèo” 2021
($37): Founded in 1998 by the German Knauf family, Campo alla Sughera has become an estate to watch in Bolgheri. Their ravishing reds represent a variation on Bordeaux blends. Adèo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, delivers bright and juicy red cherry notes supported by mild tannins. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbera d’Alba Superiore DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Bric Quercia 2019
($19): Tenuta Carretta’s Barbera d’Alba is a well-price robust red that’s perfect for hearty grilled meat this summer. Supple tannins allow the immediate enjoyment of its juicy and ripe (15 percent stated alcohol) black fruit. Barbera’s inherent acidity keeps this racy red lively and in balance. … Read more
Marchesi Alfieri, Barbara d’Asti Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Alfiera” 2020
($32): Wines made from Barbera are all over the map regarding character and quality. Alfieri’s complex Barbera d’Asti shows the potential of that grape and DOCG. A dark minerality and a “not just fruit” character is a marvelous counterpoint to the lush and juicy black fruit flavors. … Read more
Podere Sapaio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Sapaio” 2019
($94, Soilair Selection): Podere Sapaio, founded in 1999, is making itself known among the Super Tuscan with their flagship wine, Sapaio. A blend of organically grown Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petit Verdot (20%) and Cabernet Franc, the stylish Sapaio impresses with a plush, velvety texture that shouts, “I’m important.” … Read more
Di Giovanna, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo “Vurría” 2021
($21, Regal Wine Imports): This zippy Grillo, made from an indigenous Sicilian grape, is a great accompaniment to seafood, even in a hearty tomato sauce, because of austere style and lively saline acidity. Not an opulent or fruit-driven wine, it is light weight, with a modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Firriato, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Harmonium” 2014
($41): Made from one of Sicily’s native grapes, this robust red holds its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly, without a trace of heaviness. Smoke and other savory accents complement its dark plum-like fresh and dried fruit notes. Good balancing acidity keeps this mature beauty bright and fresh while fine tannins lend support without astringency. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021
($16): Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. … Read more
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020
($19): Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. … Read more
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC (Marche, Italy) 2022
($16): Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. … Read more
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021
($35): This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. … Read more