Category Archives: USA – California

MacRostie Winery, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2013

($40): One of the reasons I admire MacRostie’s Chardonnays is that their single vineyard offerings are sufficiently different from each other to make separate bottlings actually meaningful. They are unique wines.  Contrast that approach with wineries whose “single vineyard” bottlings reflect a marketing strategy, not a difference in site.Read more

Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2012

($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape.  Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement.  Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013

($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings.  Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there:  Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. Read more

Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013

($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay.  There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity.  The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. Read more

Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011

($150): Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982.  The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot.  Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($40): Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine.  Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it.  There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($75): Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there.  This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011

($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines.  Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything.  Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012

($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings.  The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component.  It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012

($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings.  Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. Read more

Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012

($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it.  And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw.  Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else.  Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Fumé Blanc 2014

($14): It’s abundantly clear that David Stare’s decision in 1972 to plant Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was brilliant.  That grape brought — and continues to bring — acclaim to Dry Creek Vineyard.  The 2014, labeled, as always, Fumé Blanc (an allusion to the Loire Valley’s Pouilly Fumé) is marvelous with a rich texture offset by grapefruit rind-like bitterness and delicate bite. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Merlot Harris Vineyard 2012

($60): The Nickel & Nickel Harris Vineyard Merlot, though similarly floral to their Suscol Ranch bottling, is firmer with more backbone and structure at this stage.  The tannins are more apparent, but still not aggressive or astringent.  It delivers a marvelous leafy character that compliments and reinforces its dark, warm fruit and dense minerality. Read more

Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($40): One word describes this wine — graceful.  Truchard Vineyards has resisted the temptation to join the crowd with an over-the-top blockbuster Cabernet.  Instead, they’ve chosen the graceful path with a wine displaying an alluring herbaceous quality without being under-ripe.  There’s plenty of power here, but it doesn’t scream or overwhelm your palate — or the food for that matter. Read more

Matanzas Creek Winery, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench 2013

($40): Matanzas Creek, a pioneering Sonoma County winery founded in 1977, produces five different and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc, each reflecting the origin of the grapes.  You can practically taste and feel the volcanic soil in this Helena Bench bottling, which gives the wine individuality rarely found with this variety in California. Read more