Canvasback, Red Mountain (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Passage” 2014

($80):  Canvasback, Duckhorn’s outpost in Washington State, has turned out a masterful Cabernet from the 2014 vintage.  It’s a “big” Cabernet, to be sure, but not overblown, hot, or out of balance.  Indeed, it is precisely the combination of expressiveness and elegance with its density that is so awesome.  Plush tannins provide structure without being aggressive.  Fresh acidity amplifies the gorgeous black fruit qualities complemented by mineral notes and prevents palate fatigue.  You want to return for another sip.  Engaging now, especially with a holiday roast, its balance suggests cellaring for a decade or so will be rewarding. 95 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2017