Moutard, Champagne (France) “Grand Cuvée” Brut NV

($37, Polaner Selections):  It’s always a pleasure to find real Champagne at under $40 a bottle.  This one, made entirely from Pinot Noir, delivers substantial power offset by uncanny gracefulness.  It has a roundness and gentleness, despite its intensity, without being soft.  Try it at Thanksgiving. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2017