Michele Chiarlo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Cerequio 2013

($102, Kobrand):  Chiarlo was largely responsible for the resurrection of this iconic vineyard in La Morra, that, according to Kerin O’Keefe, a world’s expert on Italian wine in general and Barolo in particular, laid abandoned until the 1950s even though it had been listed as a top spot in an authoritative 19th century classification of Barolo’s vineyards.  Chiarlo owns more than half of the entire vineyard.  Not surprisingly, it is their signature wine, their pride and joy.  Very aromatic and captivating on that basis alone, it reflects the lighter side of Barolo, as it should, coming from La Morra.  It dances on the palate, conveying a Burgundian-like elegance and airiness — then the firm tannins hit. A bit of oak flavor from barrel aging is apparent at this stage, but not intrusive.  Judging from past vintages, the oak will become integrated, leaving a suave and even more refined texture. 94 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2017