Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2014

($20, Wilson Daniels): The major problem facing growers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a prestigious DOCG in Umbria, is how to make the wine more approachable when young — Sagrantino has ferocious tannins — without eviscerating it.  Enter the Montefalco Rosso DOC, which gives the consumer a chance get a hint of what the region has to offer.  Arnaldo-Caprai has fashioned a quite engaging example by blending a bit of Sagrantino (15%) with an equal amount of Merlot and then filling out the wine with Sangiovese (70%).  Sangiovese imparts a lip-smacking cherry-like fruitiness, while the Merlot adds fleshiness and the Sagrantino power and structure.  Best of all, it’s a delight to drink now with a hearty pasta dish.
90 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2017