Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015

($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll.  For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone. Bricco dei Guazzi’s has a prominent and penetrating minerality that marries well with its substantial body.  Lively acidity imparts a cutting edginess.  Clean and mouth cleansing, it’s a superb choice for summer seafood.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2017