Cadaretta, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind Vineyard 2014

($75): This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — which does contain 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot — is considerably more powerful and youthful than Cadaretta’s “Springboard” bottling.  At this stage, it’s quite closed with a combination of deep black fruit and mineral-like flavors peeking out.  It’s beautifully balanced with no heat in the finish despite its 14.8% stated alcohol.  Indeed, there’s an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish that also belies the level of alcohol, which frequently comes across as sweetness.  With time in the glass (hours, really), its allure starts to emerge.  But frankly, this is a wine to cellar for several years.  I’d happily drink Cadaretta’s Springboard while waiting.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 11, 2017