Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014

($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner.  Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex.  Each terrace has slightly difference soil and exposure so they vinify the parcels separately and then blend them to create a single wine, according to winemaker Frédéric Weber.  Bouchard’s 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet is both explosive and elegant.  Rich and steely, it’s a study in paradox.  Seemingly endless, it continues to dazzle the palate after you swallow.  (It’s one of those wines that you can’t spit at a tasting.)  So, if you’re a 1-percenter or have just won the lottery, here’s a wine for you.  Based on Bouchard’s track record with Chevalier-Montrachet, I’d cellar the 2014 for at least a decade.
98 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017