($17, Classical Wines of Spain): Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado. With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too. Despite its five years of age, this rich wine remains tight and needs additional bottle age. It’s closed, but balanced, at this stage, and just needs time to open as opposed to being hard or astringent and needing time to soften. Lively acidity balances its plum-like fruitiness and muscular stature, keeping it fresh. If you opt to drink it this winter, open a few hours before the meal and decant it to let it breathe. Alternatively, find a place for this bargain-priced beauty in your cellar.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017