Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014

($12, Louis Latour USA): Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation.  Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required.  The variety makes sense since the area is close to, and has similar soil as, Pouilly sur Loire and Sancerre where Sauvignon Blanc thrives.  Simonnet-Febrve, a top-notch Chablis producer, made a zingy lime-tinged version that is impossible to resist.  Crisp and cutting, drink it with anything from steamed clams dipped in butter to spicy sushi.  It’s steely and a steal.  Buy it by the case.
90 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016