Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011

($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record.  The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label.  Very aromatic with scents evocative of honeysuckle, it delivers similar sensations on the palate–melon-like flavors and other tropical fruits spring to mind.  There’s just the barest hint of the usual Sauvignon Blanc pungency.  Good acidity keeps it all together.  Its floral nature allows enjoyment on its own, but its overall weight makes it a good match for a spicy sautéed shrimp dish.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 22, 2013