d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Grenache The Derelict Vineyard 2009

($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite its punch of ripe wild strawberry notes, this is a mid-weight wine with a charming rusticity. It grows in the glass with smokey spicy elements appearing after the fruit notes. The more you sip it, the more you like it. It’s not tiring and certainly not boring. With plenty of energy, it sparkles with flavor, making it a good choice for grilled meats or spicy pasta dishes.
90 Michael Apstein May 7, 2013