Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut 2002

($99, Terlato):  I don’t know how Bollinger manages to combine power and grace so successfully in all their Champagnes.  The 2002 is especially noteworthy for this combination of intensity and elegance without being overdone.  The biscuit-like flavors seem to persist forever.  You could practically drink this with a steak. 95 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012