Laurenz, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Singing” 2010

($16, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  With over a third of Austrian vineyards planted with it, Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature grape.  Laurenz’s version, dubbed Singing, has a lovely combination of delicate floral notes offset by subtle peppery ones.  An alluring restraint and austerity make it a welcome change from the over ripe and overdone white wines that seem to be commonplace today.  It’s a good foil for steamed clams or mussels. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012