($11, Parra Family):  Parra Jimenez has tamed Graciano, a tannic and dense grape sometimes used in Rioja, without eviscerating it.  An intriguing mixture of fruit and earth flavors, it still delivers dense explosive black fruit flavors.  But there’s also a savory, almost chewy component.  Its succulence would be a good choice for grilled meat.  And you gotta love the price. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 5, 2012