($21):  WillaKenzie makes lovely wines exclusively from their estate-grown grapes.  They are best known for their stylish Pinot Noir–approximately 70% of their vineyards are devoted to that varietal–but they also make excellent examples of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.  They planted Pinot Blanc in the early and mid-1990s, which means the vines are starting to enter a mature stage and are capable of making more complex wines.  Their 2009 has substantial depth, a quality rarely seen with this variety, but is by no means heavy or overdone.  Subtle aromatics of white flowers and a Granny Smith apple-like crispness convey an almost paradoxical delicacy.  A stand-alone aperitif, it would be a terrific choice for sushi. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2010