($26, Athenee Importers):  In the brief 15 years since its founding in 1994, Gai’a has become one of Greece’s top producers.  Their Thalassitis, made entirely from the Assyrtiko grape, is clean and bracing with a lava-infused minerality.  It has a lovely firmness and incredible persistence and intensity without being heavy.  This distinctive wine is a good foil for grilled shrimp with a garlic and herb or other full-flavored sauce. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010