Gai’a, Greece (Greece) “14-18 H” Rosé 2009

($14, Athenee Importers):  Although made entirely from Agiorgitiko, one of Greece’s prestige grapes, grown in Nemea, one of Greece’s prime wine producing areas, this carries no appellation because regulations only recognize red wines from Nemea, not rosé.   After tasting this wine, it’s pretty clear that those regulations need to change.  Crisp and bracing, this lovely rosé is serious stuff, redolent of wild strawberries.  Those looking for bright and refreshing rosé this summer can stop looking. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010