($26, Athenee Importers):  Made from the Xinomavro grape, the only one allowed in the Naoussa appellation, this is a big, nicely structured wine with an appealing hard–but not aggressive–edge and an equally appealing tarry signature.  It’s best as a foil for a rich roast or grilled leg of lamb, not as a before dinner drink. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010