($16, Athenee Importers):  This domaine is the sole winery in the Côte de Meliton appellation in northern Greece and one of the country’s largest vineyard owners.  Porto Carras has fashioned a very engaging version of Assyrtiko–slightly softer and more aromatic–than is made on the island of Santorini, the grape’s traditional home.  Clean and bright, it has a lively Granny Smith apple-like bite that makes it a good choice for simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010