Domaine FL, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Roche aux Moines 2007

($53, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines):  Domaine FL is a domaine established within the last decade with the acquisition of most of the vineyards of the well-established grower and producer, Jo Pithon, by Philippe Fournier, head of the French telecommunication company, Afone.  With the acquisition from Pithon, Domaine FL became one of eight proprietors of the famed Roche aux Moines vineyard in Savennières, home to world’s best expression of dry Chenin Blanc.  Penetrating and focused, this is great wine.  It’s brilliantly clean with layers of minerality and a lovely granitic edge all amplified by a limey finish.  Despite a tightly wound nature, it conveys an alluring richness and concentration.  At this stage it reveals only a hint of its grandeur.  Give it another five years or so to allow its real complexity to unfold. 95 Michael Apstein May 25, 2010