Egly-Ouriet, Champagne (France) “VP” Brut NV

($93, Ideal Wines):

Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot.  But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling.  Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  The power of the latter is impeccably balanced and even amplified by the creamy elegance of the Chardonnay.   There’s a lovely interplay between mature, biscuit-like nuances that persist into a seemingly endless finish and an enlivening freshness.  Layers of flavor emerge with successive sips, making this an extraordinary wine!

96 Michael Apstein Nov 17, 2009