Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Demoiselles” 2008

($75, Boutique Wine Collection): Sancerre is a special place because Sauvignon Blanc planted here can have a unique flavor profile, unlike the taste of wines made from Sauvignon Blanc planted elsewhere.  Sadly, these days as Sancerre has grown in popularity too many of its wines have lost their distinctiveness.  Not this one.   Mellot combines enormous power with the quintessential earthy, chalky flavors unique to Sancerre.  This wine has an attractive bite, herbal notes without being aggressive, and an astounding length and elegance.  Whether you want to pay $75 for it is between you and your banker, but make no mistake, it’s one of the benchmarks of the appellation. 95 Michael Apstein Jun 23, 2009