The Chocolate Block, Western Cape (South Africa) 2007

($59, Vineyard Brands): Normally I don’t care for wines with these kinds of fanciful names, but given the unpronounceable name of the producer–Boekenhoutskloof–the rationale is clear and above reproach.  It’s kind of a Rhône blend–Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cinsault (5%) and Viognier (4%)–but then there’s Cabernet Sauvignon to round it out.  In this big, bold wine, the unconventional blend actually works.  Perhaps it’s suggestion from the name, but there are hints of chocolate and cocoa–maybe the Cabernet speaking–as well as lively peppery nuances, especially in the finish.  This robust wine is not for the faint of heart, but a surprising degree of elegance gives it more class than is usually apparent with this style of wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009