($37, Kermit Lynch): Gigondas, like Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Vacqueyras, is one of the cru of the southern Rhone.  Although the blend of primarily Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and other Rhône varieties, is similar to Châteauneuf, the wines are often a bit more rustic.  Domaine les Pallieres, one of the leading producers, makes wines with uncommon elegance without sacrificing the robust earthy signature of the region.  Their 2005 fits that mold and is right on the money for those upcoming hearty autumnal meals. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008