Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004

($75, Hess Imports): This, Peter Lehmann’s top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best.  Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it’s the vibrancy and layers of flavors–black cherry, mint and other herbs–that make it notable.  Hints of smoke and gamey nuances add to its allure.  The panoply of flavors carries the 14.5 % alcohol beautifully, so it comes across as a big, but balanced, wine. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008